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Electronic circuits and electronic schematics |
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Schematics > Automotive > Pulsing Third Brake Light
Pulsing Third Brake Light

Caution: I'm checking into the legalities of this particular circuit at
this time. Any type of flashing light on the main brake lights is prohibited
and illegal in most states of the U.S.A. I'm verifying for the same here in
Canada. In the mean time, use this circuit at your own risk and be aware that
the possibility exists to be stopped by law enforcement if you implement this
circuit in your vehicle.
Parts List
Semiconductors:
IC1,IC2 = 555 Timer, RS #276-1723
SCR1 = NTE/ECG5402, RS #276-1067, EC103A, MCR104, etc.
Q1 = NTE/ECG197, SK3083, TIP125, or equivalent
D1,D2,D3 = 1N4148, 1N914, NTE/ECG519, RS #276-1122
D4,D5 = 1N5400, NTE/ECG5850, RS #276-1141, or equivalent
Resistors:
R1 = 18K
R2 = 330 ohm (RS #271-1315)
R3 = 270K
R4 = 82K
R5,R6 = 1K2
R8 = 100 ohm (RS# 271-1311)
P1 = 50K, 10-turn
P2 = 10K, 10-turn
Capacitors:
C1 = 100µF/16V (RS# 272-1016)
C2 = 22µF/16V (RS# 272-1014)
C3 = 220µF/16V (RS# 272-1017)
C4 = 10µF/16V (RS# 272-1013)
Q1 is a PNP Silicon Audio Power Out/Medium Power Switch Transistor, 7A,
with a TO-220 case. As long as you have a transistor which is close it will
work fine. The SCR is a 100vrm, 0.8A, sensitive gate with a TO-92 case. Diodes
D1, D2 and D3 are standard small signal diodes. Power diodes D4 and D5 are the
6A, 50prv types, cathode case. The 60vrm type will work as well. I used for
IC1 & IC2 the LM555 type. P1 controls the 'on' and pulse-duration, P2 controls
the pulse-timing.
Applying the Brakes: When you first press the brakes, this circuit will turn
on your 3rd brake light via the main brake lights. After about a second a
series of short strobe pulses occur. The number of pulses range from
approximately 1 to 10, depending on the setting of P1/P2 and when the brake
pedal was applied last. After the pulses have been applied the third brake
light assumes normal operation. The prototype was set for five flashes which
seemed more than enough. Two days later I re-adjusted the trimmer
potentiometers for 4 flashes--1/2 second pause--4 flashes. Looks pretty cool!
Circuit Description: The schematic consists of two 555 timer/oscillators in a
dual timer configuration both setup in astable mode. When power is applied via
the brake pedal, the brake light driver Q1 is switched on via the low-output
pin 3 of IC2, and timer IC1 begins its timing cycle. With the output on pin 3
going high, inhibiting IC2's pin 2 (trigger) via D2, charge current begins to
move through R3, R4 and C2.
When IC1's output goes low, the inhibiting bias on pin 2 of IC2 is removed and
IC2 begins to oscillate, pulsing the third brake light via the emitter of Q1,
at the rate determined by P2, R6, and C4. That oscillation continues until the
gate-threshold voltage of SCR1 is reached, causing it to fire and pull IC1's
trigger (pin 2) low. With its trigger low, IC1's ouput is forced high,
disabling IC2's trigger. With triggering disabled, IC2's output switches to a
low state, which makes Q1 conduct turning on the 3rd Brake Light until the
brakes are released. Obviously, removing the power from the circuit at any
time will reset the Silicon Controlled Rectifier SCR1, but the RC network
consisting of R4 and C2 will not discharge immediately and will trigger SCR1
earlier. So, frequent brake use means fewer flashes or no flashes at all. But
I think that's okay. You already have the attention from the driver behind you
when you used your brakes seconds before that.
The collector/emitter voltage drop accross Q1 together with the loss over the
series fed diodes D4/D5, will reduce the maximum available light output, but
if your car's electrical system is functioning normally in the 13 - 14volt
range, these losses are not noticeable.
Building Tips: You can easily build this circuit on perfboard or on one of RS/Tandy's
experimentors boards (#276-150), or use the associated printed circuit board
listed here.
Keep in mind that Q1 will draw most likely 2 or 3 amps and mounting this
device on a heat sink is highly recommended. Verify that the scr is the
'sensitive gate' type. In incandecent bulbs, there is a time lag between the
introduction of current and peak brightness. The lag is quite noticeable in an
automotive bulb, so the duration of a squarewave driving such a bulb should be
set long enough to permit full illumination. For that reason, and because
lamps and car electrical systems vary, adjustment via P1 and P2 is necessary
to provide the most effective pulse timing for your particular vehicle.
The reason that the third light is connected to both brake lights is to
eliminate the possibility of a very confusing display when you use your turn
signal with the brakes applied.
The cathode of D4 and D5 are tied together and go to point 'B' of the third
brake light in the component layout diagram. Point 'A' goes to the other leg
of the third brake light. Most if not all third brake lights in Canada & USA
have two wires, the metal ones also have a ground wire which obviously goes to
ground. I don't know the wiring schema for Australian and European third brake
lights.
Don't forget the three jumpers on the pcb; two jumpers underneath IC1/IC2
between pin 4/8 and the one near Q1/R6.
If you use a metal case, don't forget to insulate the D4/D5 diodes.
Some 90's cars, like my 1992 Mercury Sable, have two bulbs inside the third
brake light, each bulb is hooked up seperately to the left and right brake
light for reasons only Ford knows.
Click here for a possible 2-bulb hookup. It shows how I modified mine to
get it working; and that was easier than I expected. Current draw with the two
bulbs was measured at 1.85Amps (1850mA). Even with double the current none of
the circuit components were getting hot. I had to re-adjust the two pots to
make it flash since the bench testing was done with one bulb.
Bench Testing:I tested different semiconductors like the 1N5401/1N5404,
NTE153, and 4A type powerdiodes for D4/D5. All worked very well. As expected,
Q1 is getting very hot. Current draw was measured between 680 - 735mA with a
regular automotive 'headlight' bulb, extra heavy duty to make sure the circuit
was safe. I tested several other power transistors including some darlingtons
like the TIP125 and the TIP147. I eventually settled for the TIP125 myself
because I had it available but any thing with 5A or more will do fine.
The actual third brake bulb is a lot smaller. Adjusting the trimpots (P1/P2)
may take a bit of patience but really fine-tunes the circuit well. The only
drawback of this circuit is the discharge lag coming from the electrolytic
capacitor C2 and the R4 resistor. Especially if the brakes are used often or
at short intervals the third brake light will not flash or maybe flash once or
twice. Again, this is because the R-C combo does not have enough time to
discharge in between braking. It takes about 12 seconds to discharge C2.
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The pcb measures 2 x 2.5 inch (5 x 6.4cm or 170 x 200 pixels)
at 2 colors and is shown smaller when you print these pages.
If you need a direct, full size copy of the pcb I suggest to load the gif
file into a program like Paint Shop Pro or one of the many gif viewers
available. |
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The layout is enlarged a bit for a better component view.
Note that Q1 is drawn soldered on the pcb but if you have a metal case
you can put it anywhere on the metal case (as a coolrib) and use havy duty
wiring between Q1 and the PCB.
CORRECTION: SCR1's anode/kathode
were shown reversed (fixed: 2-26-2000).
Copyright © 2000 - Tony van Roon |
Title: Pulsing Third Brake Light
Source: www.electronics-lab.com
Published on: 2005-02-02
Reads: 474
Print version:  Other schematics from Automotive Headlight Flasher Synchronized multi-spark module (SMSM) for Electronic Ignition Devices (EID) Charge Monitor for 12V lead acid battery Headlights Timer Park-Aid Nite Rider Lights Wiper Speed Control Lighting Third Brake Light Simple but reliable car battery tester Speed-limit Alert Schematics > Automotive > Pulsing Third Brake Light |
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